Words such as ‘sustainable’, ‘locally-sourced’ and ‘slow food’ might be buzz words du jour for all that is wonderful in the food world right now (and we hope they stay around longer than du jour), but Tony Najiola was already ahead of the pack when he opened his restaurant Central Market in 2003.
Upon moving here, it didn’t take long to find out this was THE local’s preferred dining spot and after the first bite of braised short ribs, it took even less time to find out why.
Set in bucolic downtown Petaluma, Tony transformed the 1920 MacLay brick building into a wonderfully intimate loft-like space with exposed brick walls, soaring ceilings, an open kitchen complete with wood fired stove, candlelit tables and large windows looking out onto Petaluma Boulevard.
It’s a romantic spot that bustles with energy à la big city dining and with Chef Tony’s experience at some of the top restaurants in New York City and San Francisco, this makes sense. Central Market impeccably blends these two culinary worlds with slower-paced Petaluma.
Partnering with local purveyors, Central Market’s menu changes often depending on market seasonality and local growers are the highlight of the menu: Greenstring Farms (Petaluma), Liberty Ducks (Penngrove) and Sonoma Direct (Sebastapol) are just a few of Central Market’s partners. The cuisine is fresh, yet rustic, and wonderfully deceptive in its slow-cooked simplicity.
Start your meal off with some local Hog Island oysters, but if you pair them with bubbles, don’t be surprised when Tony (who roams the room regularly to chat with diners) proceeds to bring out a complimentary taste of late-harvest Chardonnay in order to ‘enlighten your palate’. This comes from a guy who spends every birthday morning out at Hog Island Oyster Co. doing that exact thing, so come prepared to be amazed at the interplay of salty sea and luscious fruit on your palate.
After that lesson, I’d pretty much follow Tony anywhere on the proverbial culinary cliff.
Move on to one (or three) of his delicious starters, such as the House Smoked Salmon over Crispy Potato Latke (pictured above) or my favorite, Fried Liberty Farms Duck Liver over Watercress Salad and Persimmons.
His wood fired stove creates delectable entreé delights such as Baked Cannelloni or White Pizzettas, but the dish that always has me unabashedly licking my plate for more is his Red Wine Braised Black Angus Short Ribs with Horseradish Potatoes and Root Vegetables. Pair it with a Cabernet Franc from his equally seasonal (and highly affordable) wine list and settle back for a delight of a culinary evening.
Oh. And don’t forget to save room at the end for one of the seasonal desserts, such as Hazlenut Parisian Macaroons (photographed above). Perhaps paired with a 10-year Tawny Port?
Don’t worry. You’ll make room.
A couple of SCL insider tips for you: Party of 2? Snag one of the high tables along the front windows and pretend you’re back in the big city. (Reservations in advance will help your mission because apparently there are many of us in Petaluma fighting for that experience.)
Party of 4? Reserve the cozy booth along the front windows, nestled in its own private corner. I’ll admit. I lust after this seat every time I go, but have yet to snag it. Please invite me over if you get there first.
Thursday Night? Get there early for oyster happy hour which gifts your culinary world with $1 oysters. Remember the aforementioned wine pairing? Bring your own Sauternes and pay the $14 corkage fee. You won’t want to leave.
Central Market: 42 Petaluma Blvd North, Petaluma; 707-778-9900; Open 7 days a week 5:30-9 and 5:30-10 Friday/Saturday.
